WHAT TO SEE IN LISBON AND THE ALFAMA NEIGHBORHOOD

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Day 2: LISBON - Lisbon Viewpoints, Alfama District, Sé, Casa dos Bicos, Pantheon, Feira da Ladra Market, Chiado, Carmo Convent

Saturday, November 16, 2013

It's 7 in the morning and we're in Lisbon, in the This is Lisbon Hostel and how could it be otherwise, the desire we have to know the city and put into practice the question of what to see in LisbonThey make us leave the room shortly before 8 in the morning.
After charging the batteries with a very complete breakfast, we leave before 9 in the morning of our accommodation in Lisbon.

Start the day in Lisbon

We are staying in the Alfama neighborhood, on the Rua da Costa do Castelo and today that is our first day in Lisbon and we have the whole day, we can do nothing but start the day with great desire.

As soon as you leave the This is Lisbon Hostel, a woman who is at the door of one of the houses opposite, warns us, with fuss, that we keep the cameras in our backpacks, because if I'm not sure they will give us the pull to steal them ... This fact really leaves us quite confused for a few minutes, which we continue to walk the streets of "our neighborhood" on the way to the Mirador das Portas do Sol.
A good option to not miss anything in the city is to book this guided tour in Spanish or this free tour of Lisbon Free!

More practical information to prepare your trip to Lisbon
- 10 essential tips for traveling to Lisbon
- 50 things to see and do in Lisbon
- The 5 best tours and excursions in Lisbon
- 10 essential places to visit in Lisbon
- 10 cheap restaurants to eat in Lisbon
- Where to stay in Lisbon: best neighborhoods and hotels
- How to go from Lisbon airport to downtown
- The best free tours in Lisbon for free

As we move forward, we cannot stop commenting that it seems incredible that we have let so many years go by without knowing a city that only in a few minutes has already fallen in love.

Lisbon streets

Traveling at this time of the year is allowing us, thanks to the fantastic time we have, to enjoy a Lisbon practically deserted Something that sharpens, if possible, that decadent air we breathe at every step we take.
As we approach the Mirador das Portas do Sol, the sun begins to heat more strongly and begins to give us stunning views of the reddish roofs of Alfama that seem to slide to the Tagus.

Views of Lisbon from the Mirador das Portas do Sol

Lisbon from the Mirador das Portas do Sol

As the minutes pass, we see people begin to approach the viewpoint, as we watch, looking like a movie, as the Lisbon life begins to wake up.

Cruises from the Mirador das Portas do Sol

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Views from the Mirador das Portas do Sol

The views we have of the famous Alfama neighborhood from this perspective, they make us turn several times, renouncing to continue our way through the streets of Lisbon.
A good option to learn more about the history and curiosities of the neighborhood is to book this guided tour in Spanish or this free tour of the Alfama neighborhood.

Viewpoint of Portas do Sol

Stunning views of the Alfama neighborhood from the Mirador das Portas do Sol

When we are about to continue knowing the city, we see a man who begins to mount his paradita of paintings and just see one of them, without looking much more, we know that this will be one of the things that come with us from Lisbon.

Art in the Mirador das Portas do Sol

But not yet 10 in the morning, we prefer not to start "consuming" our first day and decide that we will return here, at any other time in our getaway to buy that souvenir.
And so we continue our journey this morning continuing to the Mirador de Santa Lucía which is located a few meters from the Das Portas do Sol.

Santa Lucia viewpoint

We cannot deny that you start the day at this viewpoint, surrounded by bougainvillea, with stunning views of the rooftops of the Alfama neighborhood and of the Tagus, it is a privilege.
In the back there are white and blue tile panels with scenes of the siege of Lisbon 1147 and the Praça do Comercio at the beginning of the 18th century.

Santa Lucia viewpoint

Details of the Mirador de Santa Lucia

This one is much prettier in terms of architecture, but the views we have of Lisbon from this point, they are a bit worse than the ones we have had before.

Enjoying the Santa Lucia Viewpoint

We cannot deny that we have just arrived at Lisbon, only a few hours ago we arrived, but we have already fallen in love with the city, despite these endless slopes. Its decadent atmosphere and its streets have wrapped us up in a way that no city had done before.
When we ask what to see in LisbonThis question implies so many things that it is almost impossible to answer. Lisbon It is one of those cities so complete, that you would not even know it for years traveling its streets ...
As we continue to get lost in the streets, this time on the way to the Sé, it seems that the small bars, in each corner, multiply.
All seem to have been placed with great care in the place, so that they merge with the streets, as if they had belonged to them all their lives.

Book the best rated tours and excursions in Spanish in Lisbon by travelers:
- Excursion to Sintra, Cascais and Estoril
- Guided tour of Lisbon
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We continue down from the Mirador de Santa Lucía and we find ourselves just after the bend with the Sé. The Cathedral of Lisbon that so often appears in the photos and postcards with his inseparable companion, the yellow tram ...
Before devoting ourselves to looking for the "perfect photo" we decided to enter and thus find that moment of rest and peace that churches and cathedrals always offer.

Lisbon Cathedral

The Cathedral of Lisbon It is one of the great icons of the city. It was built in 1150 in the place of a mosque when the Christians recovered the city from the hands of the Arabs.
Its interior of ribbed vaults illuminated by the light that enters through the rose window emanates tranquility as soon as you enter. The Gothic cloister opens to a pit of archaeological excavations that are more than 2000 years old.
After a few minutes of rest and especially visiting the Sé, we return to the neighborhoods of Lisbon, this time to look for a viewpoint that we have read is very hidden in the Rua de las Pedras, right next to the Sé and is a secret Lisbon.
And after more than 20 minutes, we can say that it is a secret, a great secret ... because we could not find it in any way!
With these we return to the area of the cathedral of Lisbon to try to make the famous photo of the tram next to the Sé, but as soon as they arrive, they do with us a couple of buses, which not only collapse traffic, but leave just a few groups in front of us Ours to listen to the explanations of their guides and therefore cancel the possibility of making the famous photo.

Attempt to photograph the Lisbon Cathedral with the tram ...

So we decided to return at another time of the day and continue our walk through the Alfama neighborhood, this time to the famous Casa dos Bicos.
With a striking facade reminiscent of a pincushion, this eccentric house belonged to Alfonso de Albuquerque in the 16th century.
What most attracts attention are the 1125 pyramidal stones of its facade. Today it is the headquarters of the José Samarago Foundation.

Casa dos Bicos in Lisbon

This area of Lisbon is somewhat different from the heart of Alfama neighborhood in which the streets and especially the environment, make you go back a few decades in time.
Once Casa dos Bicos was known, we decided to get lost again in the streets of Alfama neighborhood to try to get (if we get rid of our beloved streets of this neighborhood) to the Feira da Ladra Market, which is only done on Tuesdays and Saturdays and they have told us that it is like a London Portobello.
We know that we are repeating ourselves a lot, but we can't help it. Alfama is incredible. If we didn't say it, it would be like lying. We would not be explaining what the Alfama neighborhood.

Details of the Alfama neighborhood

Art Gallery in the Alfama Neighborhood

Arabic history leaks through many corners of this Lisbon-like neighborhood with a medina-like appearance, with beautiful cobbled alleys, mixed with clothes hanging and whispers of fado.

Details of the Alfama neighborhood

Barrio de Alfama, in its purest form ...

I wish we could convey with words the smells of food that invade us at every step we take. The smell of fabric softener hanging on improvised clotheslines ... The smell of Alfama neighborhood.

Light in the Alfama neighborhood

We continue to get lost in its streets, totally convinced that this is the best way to know the neighborhood and above all, knowing that at some point in our trip to Lisbon We will return to this area of the city, to say goodbye to it ...

Alfama neighborhood

Alfama without more

If we take a fixed course and after just over an hour, we realize that we are again a few steps from the Mirador das Portas do Sol.
At this time the viewpoint is full of people, but without even commenting, we realize that we are both doing the same thing: look with our eyes for a free table on the terrace / bar that is in the viewpoint and that at this time it is full of people.
After a few minutes we are lucky to find a free one and ask what will be our first coffee in Lisbon, accompanied as it could not be otherwise, from one of the most famous cakes in the world: Belém's cake.

Tasting the famous Belém Cakes at the Mirador das Portas do Sol

Mmm ... they had spoken wonders to us, but we can say that these have been far exceeded. They are in vice !!! And the price, what are we going to say. Only 4.10 euros for a coffee, a cappuccino and a cake.

Details of the surroundings of the Mirador das Portas do Sol

The views from here are the best of Lisbon. The reddish roofs of Alfama neighborhood They accompany us during the minutes we are here and make us feel very fortunate, to be able to do what we really like.

Enjoying the Mirador das Portas do Sol

We took this moment to take those pictures that we had seen first thing in the morning and now we do not want to miss again. If chance has brought us back here, who are we to take the opposite?

Viewpoint of Portas do Sol

After this morning kit-kat, we go back down the viewpoint stairs, to get lost again in the streets of the Alfama neighborhood, heading at all times to the left side, to reach the Feira da Ladra Market.

Alfama neighborhood

Getting lost again in the streets of this unique neighborhood, makes us lose track of time, in a day full of places to see in Lisbon.

Colors in the Alfama neighborhood

We follow the direction to the Pantheon and in one of the streets that lead us there we find a handicraft shop with items made exclusively by local artists in which we buy several things and chat with the owner for a while, commenting on the importance of maintaining this type of business, different from the rest, in the cities.
After a good walk, we reach the Pantheon area with incredible sun and light.

Pantheon

The weather forecast these days, consulting online was very good, but it is still better!
We have told you that Lisbon are we loving it? 😉
The entrance to the Pantheon costs 3 euros and on Sundays it is free as almost all places of Lisbon.
Something we found as a very good initiative to enhance the visit to the most emblematic places of the city.
Just behind the Pantheon we find the Feira da Ladra Market where we lose ourselves for a long time among the hundreds of positions that occupy the surrounding streets.
The environment in this type of markets always makes us approach the place where we are and at the moment, we always feel that need to have more time to enjoy more tranquility.
They say that to see Graça in all its splendor you have to come to this market, when the Campo de Santa Clara becomes a great rake in which the locals sell junk and treasures in the shadow of the National Pantheon.

Feira da Ladra Market

After these lost minutes among all kinds of gadgets, we continue along a very steep street to reach the amazing Mirador Santa Graça, where after taking many photos, we make a stop at the terrace / bar that we always find in the viewpoints.

Views of Lisbon from the Mirador Santa Graça

One of the places preferred by the Lisbon people is precisely this viewpoint, with incredible views of the castle, the river and the 25 de Abril Bridge.
We even have perfect views of our hostel !!

Views of our Hostel from the Mirador Santa Graça

We had a couple of soft drinks for 3.40 euros, enjoying other breathtaking views of Lisbon.
Here it is essential to hydrate often to compensate for the effort made by raising and lowering the characteristic streets of the city.
Right next to the Mirador Santa Graça, we take tram 28 for the first time since we arrived at Lisbon, with the ticket we bought yesterday of 24 hours.

The route of Tram 28 begins

Before taking the tram, it is advisable to see if we can book the Lisbon Card that includes public transport and several attractions such as the Jeronimos Monastery, the Belém Tower, the Santa Justa Elevator, etc ...
We begin the tram tour through the streets of one of the most beautiful cities in the world.
Many travelers ride Tram 28 because the 40-minute ride of this old rattling glory from Praça Martim Moniz to Campo Ourique has stunning views and helps to overcome impossible slopes.

"Modern" tuktuk lisboetas seen from Tram 28

Its polished wood panels, black and yellow paint and chrome details make this century-old tram a real-scale replica that every collector would like to have at home.
We arrive with tram 28 to Chiado and get off at the Café Brasileira stop, from where we will try to eat at Casa Asia, a restaurant that has been highly recommended through the web and social networks.

Tram 28 in Chiado

Café Brasileira in Chiado

Chiado Images

But when we arrive, the queue goes out the door of the premises, so we choose to go to the Carmo Convent, which is our next visit of the day and look for something to eat there nearby.
We have several options, but we decided on the Carmo Restaurant, right in front of the Convent and we ordered two plates of cod and water for 31 euros. Here they include the 4 euros of bread and oil that they give us as aperitivi and even knowing that they are charged separately, we have got tired of reading it, we fall thinking that they will not do it !! 😉

Eating at Carmo Restaurant

Carmo Restaurant

The place and the food very good, so we already have a restaurant where we can return the day we return to Lisbon.
In this area of the city, there is already more atmosphere of "asphalt" and the atmosphere of the Alfama neighborhood, but anyway, we still like it very much.
After eating and doing our particular desktop we go directly to the Carmo Convent, which is another of the strengths of the things to see in Lisbon.
We pay 3.50 euros per person and just after entering the entrance door, we are left with our mouths open.
Without being able to avoid it, it reminds us a lot of the ruins seen in Ireland or Scotland, saving distances.
The play of lights that we have is impressive and we cannot do anything other than look at ourselves in awe at what we have in front of us.

Carmo convent

The Carmo Convent rises almost ethereal over Lisbon. It was founded in 1389 as a convent for Carmelite nuns. It was very damaged by the earthquake of 1755 and today its bare arches and pillars are still exposed to the weather.

Carmo convent

The Gothic ship sank over the parishioners on All Saints' Day of 1755, when the earth shook.

Interior of the Carmo Convent

In the middle of the patio, we find a group of children, with their teachers, who are visiting, but at the same time they are playing the potato race, shouting and running around the whole enclosure ... encouraged by their teachers.
We understand that teaching at these ages should be approached in very different ways from those used at more advanced ages, but does it have to be this way?
This has been a simple reflection we make, encouraged by the increasingly common "surreal" situations we encounter in our travels 😉
Inside the Carmo Convent we visit the museum, an area that although small, is very interesting.
After more than 45 minutes, we continue on Rua da Trindade, where we take the opportunity to buy some postcards.
It is almost mid-afternoon, so we continue to the Church of San Roque, which we see that although it does not stand out on the outside, its interior is spectacular.

San Roque Church

The discreet facade of this Jesuit Church hidden in a surprising interior of gold, amethysts and Florentine tiles.

Facade of the Church of San Roque

Very close to the Church of San Roque, we find the Mirador de Alcántara, which they say is one of the best in Lisbon.
A good option to explore some of the best viewpoints in Lisbon is to book this guided tour in Spanish.

Alcantara Viewpoint

Incredible views from the Mirador de Alcántara

To reach this viewpoint, apart from walking, you can ride the Elevator da Gloria, as it is located in one of the seven hills of Lisbon.

Views from the Mirador de Alcántara

Views of the Sé from the Mirador de Alcántara

The views from here cannot be denied that they are impressive, but although we know that the comparisons are odious, we cannot deny that it is impossible for us not to do so and to say that the one we liked the most, by far, is the Mirador das Portas do Sol, with its views of the rooftops of Alfama neighborhood.

Streets near the Mirador de Alcántara

After a good time enjoying the Mirador de Alcántara, we return to Café Brasileira, in Chiado and it is still full of people, so we have to look for an alternative to that mid-afternoon coffee and we end up at Café Hause, also very famous, where we had coffee and cappuccino for 3.80 euros.
It had been a long time since we had paid so little for coffee on our trips!
After this rest time, we return to the streets of Lisbon With a sky that makes us look at the clock and realize that it is almost sunset time, but before continuing on our way, we stop at Bertran, the oldest bookstore in the world, where we take a look, with the pity that everything It is Portuguese and English and we cannot take a souvenir book.

Bertran bookshop

Interior of the Bertran Library

In Lisbon It keeps calling us the attention that there is no Wi-Fi connection anywhere and that the service in all the places they have, despite being free, is very slow.
With a hot stomach for the coffees that we have just taken, we go down to the main and pedestrian street, where all we find are shops, full of people buying, we intuit those Christmas gifts.
We are facing the famous Mirador de Santa Justa, but since it is already beginning to get dark and there is enough queue, we prefer to leave the visit for tomorrow, hoping to find some solitude.

Santa Justa viewpoint

On our tour we took the opportunity to try the famous white chestnuts for 2 euros the cartridge.

White Chestnuts from Lisbon

And warming our stomachs with chestnuts, we follow the street until we reach the Plaza del Comercio where we have a good time taking pictures with the evening light and see the cruise we saw this morning from the Mirador das Portas do Sol, this morning sailing ...

Black and White Sunset over Lisbon

We cannot be surprised at each sunset of those who live on our trips. Each of them "removes" our stomach every time we remember it.

Lisbon sunset ...

From today, this will be another of our sunsets around the world ...

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Sunset…

After this amazing sunset in Lisbon and feeling that our legs scream again to take tram 28, we go to the stop near the Plaza del Comercio and we decide that it is the perfect time to take a complete tour of the city aboard one of the most emblematic of Lisbon.
We arrive at Rossio station and take the opportunity to recharge the transport card in the subway for 6 euros plus each for the next 24 hours.
And with our legs with renewed energy, we return to the pedestrian streets of the city, which await us wearing their best Christmas clothes.

Rua da Prata

Without realizing it, we are back in the Commerce Square, from where we continue our walk until we reach the Station.

Commerce Square

In this area we see the Beira Gare Restaurant, which is bursting with lisboetas, so we arm ourselves with patience, until one of the tables is empty and we can accommodate ourselves, waiting for our dinner.
We ordered a roast beef sandwich and a squid dish plus a water and a beer for 13.70 euros. Mmm ... we eat fable!

Beira Gare Restaurant

We are increasingly amazed at the prices we are finding in Lisbon.
When we have finished dinner it is almost 10 at night, so we have no choice but to go in search of the elevators that take us back to the This is Lisbon Hostel, booked thanks to Hostelworld and that it welcomes us as our house and we Clothe to rest, after more than 14 hours standing.
And dream. Dream with Lisbon, with the Alfama neighborhood… Y…